Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
